Project Coyote – The Plan

Two weeks ago, I introduced our newest project here at Survival Defense Lab: Project Coyote. For those that didn’t see it or don’t want to give it a look, the short version is that I’m building a long range rifle and I’m sharing the experience with you.  So to get us started I’m going to give you the overview of the plan for the rifle and a brief explanation of what I’m hoping to accomplish with each step. So without further ado here we go.

Step 1: Action

This is the part that makes it all work. It consists of the bolt,  trigger group, etc. For mine I’ve chosen the Ruger American Predator. This is an attractive option because of it’s similarity to the Ruger Precision Rifle (not an exact copy though), it’s affordability, and the barrel that comes with it, while being replaced in the future, is already threaded for a muzzle break or silencer.

Step 2: Chassis

This replaces the main part of what’s traditionally known as the stock. It beds the action in place and allows the barrel to be free floated. It’s important to note that when you use a chassis system it is only the part that holds the action and provides a framework to attach a stock, grip, and other accessories too. It does not usually include a butt stock.

For the chassis I chose the MDT LSS, for the simple reason that it’s the only chassis available for the action right now. If you want more options, then you’ll want to choose a different action. The Remington 700 is probably the most popular. There are wood stocks available for the Ruger American, but I wanted to go the chassis route.

Step 3: Muzzle Brake

A muzzle brake reduces recoil by taking some the exiting gases and their related forces and redirecting them backwards. This causes an opposite and equal reaction pushing the gun forward against the recoil. The effect is reduced recoil and A LOT of noise. Due to a little deal I brokered I’ll be using a no name brake, but we’ll discuss lots of options.

Step 4: Stock

The stock, or but tstock, is used to hold the rifle against your shoulder but also provides the platform for your cheek weld that helps you align with your scope. This is significant as it helps you hold the rifle the same way every time and makes it comfortable to shoot, which removes tension from the rifle allowing for more accurate and precise shots. Decisions are still being made here.

Step 5: Scope

We all know what a scope is. I have a small surprise for this one…

The final three steps are way out in the future so we’ll discuss them more in a later post.

Step 6: Bipod

Step 7: Trigger

Step 8: Barrel

So that’s the basic plan. Of course it’s going to change, and I’d love to hear any suggestions you may have.

Did I miss anything, are my current choices incredibly dumb? If so let me know in the comments below.

2 thoughts on “Project Coyote – The Plan

  1. Hi SDL,
    Interested in the build, as a lefty I pretty much have Ruger American and Rem 700 as my options in .243
    What calibre is your Ruger?
    Sounds like you are leaving the barrel change to last… would be really interested to see what difference the barrel change makes once you have done all the other mods.
    Looking on with keen interest.
    Thanks
    Gus

    • I’m a fellow [false] lefty myself! I’m left eye dominant, but right handed

      I’ve solved that “issue” by learning to shoot right handed equipment off the left shoulder. To me that’s easier than having to deal with the limited options from manufacturers.

      As for my caliber it’s 6.5 creedmoor, which has gained a lot of popularity in the last couple years.

      The barrel, while tapered, on the predator is thicker and comes prethreaded, so it makes more sense for me to leave it as it’s a great barrel to stay with. As I use the gun I think more and more I’ll shoot it out before it’s changed.

      Thanks again for the questions and be sure to subscribe to the newsletter to keep up to date with the build.

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